The James Beard Foundation’s favorite dishes of 2014 include pork biscuit sandwiches and chilled Wagyu beef tongue
The Pork Chicharrónes at Tar & Roses is considered one of the best of 2014.
After a long, hard year of ordering from Seamless, giving in to Chipotle lunches, and the occasional trendy restaurant splurge, it’s time to sit back and watch the New Year roll in with a list of the best dishes of 2014, according to the James Beard Foundation. The James Beard Foundation’s favorite dishes of 2014 include a range of delectable high-end favorites from coast to coast.
The list includes such interesting bites as Pork Chicharrónes with Figs, Pearl Onions, and Pomegranate Molasses, from Tar & Roses in Santa Monica, California; Duck and Foie Gras Ragoût with Duck Egg and Plum Jus from Next in Chicago; and Beef Tartare with Celery, Benne, Smoked Goat’s Curd, and Pancakes in Two Boroughs Larder in Charleston, South Carolina. There’s also an unusual dish of Chilled Wagyu Beef Tongue with Pickled Vegetables served at the Inn at Little Washington in Virginia.
“The James Beard Foundation editors compiled this annual list of our favorite dishes from memorable dining experiences around the country with an eye towards highlighting dishes from different regions,” said Elena North-Kelly, senior editor at the James Beard Foundation, as she described the reasoning behind the pick for the foie gras ragout. “Dave Beran’s duck and foie gras ragoût nailed the trifecta of creativity, deliciousness, and captivating aesthetic appeal. It was thoughtful, whimsical, beautiful, and incredibly satisfying — a feast for all the senses."
If you ask us, every recipe our food editors create is a hit, but there are some dishes that really stand the test of time. Case in point? These 20 recipes are the ones you, our readers, visited most, which makes them the types of essential dishes that every home cook should master, starting with the One-Pan Pasta that's pictured here. Whether you just purchased your first chef's knife and are learning the basics, or your friends have nicknamed you "Martha" because you've cooked all of her best recipes, these classics can upgrade a weeknight dinner or make a Saturday morning or evening at home feel extra special.
For breakfast, make our Simple Crepes or Basic Pancakes&mdashthe batter for both is super simple to make and customizable for any toppings or fillings that you like. They're kid-friendly and adult-approved, and neither recipe require the purchasing of fancy equipment or ingredients. For the main course, try a restaurant-worthy meal like our Easy Roasted Chicken Thighs, which rely on Dijon mustard and honey for sweet and savory flavor. Our Baked-Eggplant Parmesan is vegetarian comfort food at its finest. If you want an all-on-one meal that you can make in advance, look no further than this Slow-Cooker Corned Beef and Cabbage. It may be a holiday staple around St. Patrick's Day, but it's also delicious year-round.
Top off the meal with a foolproof pound cake recipe, creamy No-Bake Cheesecake, or crowd-pleasing Soft and Chewy Chocolate Chip Cookies. Or learn how to make cream cheese frosting, which you can smear on red velvet cupcakes or one of our favorite carrot cake recipes. They offer a wonderful sweet bite at the end of a memorable meal.
Ready to try cooking or baking something new? Everyone should know how to make these classic Martha Stewart recipes, and once you prepare them once, we're sure they'll quickly become favorites in your home.
The Most Delicious Dishes of 2014 According to the James Beard Foundation - Recipes
How To Get The Most From Your Food
The James Beard Foundation&rsquos comprehensive book on full-use cooking&mdashhow to use all the food you buy and avoid food waste&mdashfeaturing innovative recipes and tips from chefs across the country.
The average American household throws away more than $1,500 worth of food every year. Featuring 100 recipes from chefs such as Rick Bayless, Elizabeth Falkner, Bryant Terry, and Katie Button, Waste Not shows readers how to turn ingredients that often end up in the trash into delicious dishes and exciting takes on tried-and-true recipes.
There are no better ambassadors to inspire people to reduce food waste than chefs. Nobody knows more about how to fully utilize every leaf, root, bone, stem, and rind, or has ideas for how to stretch dollars into delicious, satisfying dishes. Here, chefs from around the country share not only recipes for asparagus bottom aioli, squash-seed tahini, and fruit-skin-crusted mahi, but also their suggestions for how to get maximum mileage&mdashand inspiration&mdashfrom the food you buy. Curated by the James Beard Foundation, America&rsquos leading organization for culinary innovation, Waste Not will change what&mdashand how&mdashyou eat.
Praise For Waste Not: How To Get The Most From Your Food&hellip
"This cookbook taps into chefs&rsquo innate knowledge of preventing food waste to help you make the most of food that might otherwise get tossed. Curated by the James Beard Foundation, recipes in the book include Swiss chard stem gratin, tahini pomegranate snapper collars, and asparagus bottom aioli." &mdashNBC News Online
"The tips and tricks inside of Waste Not: How to Get the Most From Your Food. by the James Beard Foundation teaches home cooks how to start using all the food they buy, with notes from a star-studded group of chefs and cooking experts." &mdashPopsugar
"'Forty percent of all the food produced in the U.S. gets thrown away in a nation where one in six people go hungry,' Tom Colicchio points out in the foreword to this book. Chefs are masters at cutting waste, using stems, overlooked cuts of protein, and byproducts like whey to save money and boost flavor. Editors from The James Beard Foundation pulled recipes like Swiss chard stem gratin and tahini pomegranate snapper collars that make use of food that is all too often thrown away, from chefs like Elizabeth Faulkner and Mourad Lahlou." &mdashFood & Wine
"But in the hectic modern home, reducing food waste can seem like a time intensive impossibility: throwing away almost-spoiled food and leaning on convenience items is easier and faster. &ldquoWaste Not&rdquo applies the chef&rsquos knowledge &mdash and chef&rsquos savings &mdash to home cooking by culling recipes and tips from the foundation&rsquos expansive community of chefs. With chapters featuring whole vegetable cookery, re-using leftovers and preserving techniques &mdasheach with a helpful tips and simple suggestions for change in these areas &mdash the book is making waste-free cooking more accessible."
"Waste Not offers 100 recipes from 61 chefs&mdashalumni of the James Beard Foundation&rsquos Chefs Boot Camp for Policy and Change, which empowers chefs to advocate for changes in our food system. The book demonstrates how to minimize waste by fully using an ingredient&mdashfrom root to rind, leaf, stem and bone&mdashin recipes such as Squash Seed Tahini, Fried Beet Stems and Fruit Skin-Crusted Mahi Mahi. Cooking this way, the book&rsquos collaborators promise, will stretch your food dollars, enhance the flavor of your dishes and help the planet." &mdashLocal Flavor Magazine
James Andrews Beard was born in Portland, Oregon, on May 5, 1903 to Elizabeth and John Beard.  His British-born mother operated the Gladstone Hotel, and his father worked at the city's customs house. The family vacationed on the Pacific coast in Gearhart, Oregon, where Beard was exposed to Pacific Northwest cuisine. 
Common ingredients of this cuisine are salmon, shellfish, and other fresh seafood game meats such as moose, elk, or venison mushrooms, berries, small fruits, potatoes, and wild plants such as fiddleheads or young pushki (Heracleum maximum, or cow parsnip).
Beard's earliest memory of food was at the 1905 Lewis and Clark Exposition, when he was two years old. In his memoir he recalled:
I was taken to the exposition two or three times. The thing that remained in my mind above all others—I think it marked my life—was watching Triscuits and shredded wheat biscuits being made. Isn't that crazy? At two years old that memory was made. It intrigued the hell out of me. 
At age three Beard was bedridden with malaria, and the illness gave him time to focus on the food prepared by his mother and Jue-Let, the family's Chinese cook.  According to Beard he was raised by Jue-Let and Thema, who instilled in him a passion for Chinese culture.  Beard reportedly "attributes much of his upbringing to Jue-Let," whom he refers to as his Chinese godfather. 
Beard briefly attended Reed College in Portland, Oregon. He was expelled for homosexuality in 1922, having had relationships with "one or more male students and a professor."  However the college granted Beard an honorary degree in 1976. 
After leaving Reed, he traveled from Portland to Liverpool aboard a British freighter, spending subsequent years living and traveling in Europe.  In 1923, he joined a theatrical troupe and studied voice and theater. He also spent time in Paris, where he experienced French cuisine at its bistros and central market, Les Halles. In France, he also had the opportunity to enjoy sexual freedom, having a short relationship with a young man. From this period and the widespread influence of French food culture, he became a Francophile.  In 1927 he returned to the US, spending time in Portland, Hollywood, and New York attempting to start a career in acting, costume and set design, and radio. 
Beard moved to New York City in 1937. Unlucky in the theater, he and friend Bill Rhodes capitalized on the cocktail party craze by opening Hors d'Oeuvre, Inc., a catering company. This led to lecturing, teaching, writing, and the realization "that part of his mission [as a food connoisseur] was to defend the pleasure of real cooking and fresh ingredients against the assault of the Jell-O-mold people and the domestic scientists."  He published his first cookbook in 1940: Hors D'Oeuvre and Canapés, a compilation of his catering recipes. According to fellow cooking enthusiast Julia Child, this book put him on the culinary map. 
World War II rationing ended Beard's catering business. He enlisted in the Army and was trained as a cryptographic specialist. Because he had hoped to serve in the hotel management division of the Army Quartermaster Corps, he sought and obtained release from the Army in 1943 based on a regulation applying to men over age 38. 
From August 1946 to May 1947, he hosted I Love to Eat, a live television cooking show on NBC, beginning his ascent as an American food authority. According to Child, "Through the years he gradually became not only the leading culinary figure in the country, but 'The Dean of American Cuisine'." 
In 1952, when Helen Evans Brown published her Helen Brown's West Coast Cook Book, Beard wrote her a letter igniting a friendship that lasted until Brown's death. The two, along with her husband Phillip, developed a friendship which was both professional and personal. Beard and Brown became like siblings, admonishing and encouraging each other, as well as collaborating.  According to the James Beard Foundation website, "In 1955, he established The James Beard Cooking School. He continued to teach cooking to men and women for the next thirty years, both at his own schools (in New York City and Seaside, Oregon), and around the country at women's clubs, other cooking schools, and civic groups. He was a tireless traveler, bringing his message of good food, honestly prepared with fresh, wholesome, American ingredients, to a country just becoming aware of its own culinary heritage."  Beard brought French cooking to the American middle and upper classes during the 1950s, appearing on TV as a cooking personality. David Kamp (who discusses Beard at length in his book, The United States of Arugula) noted that Beard's was the first cooking show on TV.  He compares Dione Lucas' cooking show and school with Beard's, noting that their prominence during the 1950s marked the emergence of a sophisticated, New York-based, nationally and internationally known food culture.  Kamp wrote, "It was in this decade [the 1950s] that Beard made his name as James Beard, the brand name, the face and belly of American gastronomy."  He noted that Beard met Alice B. Toklas on a trip to Paris,  indicative of the network of fellow food celebrities who would follow him during his life and carry on his legacy after his death.
Beard made endorsement deals to promote products that he might not have otherwise used or suggested in his own cuisine, including Omaha Steaks, French's Mustard, Green Giant Corn Niblets, Old Crow bourbon, Planters Peanuts, Shasta soft drinks, DuPont chemicals, and Adolph's Meat Tenderizer. According to Kamp, Beard later felt himself a "gastronomic whore" for doing so. Although he felt that mass-produced food that was neither fresh, local nor seasonal was a betrayal of his gastronomic beliefs, he needed the money for his cooking schools.  According to Thomas McNamee, "Beard, a man of stupendous appetites—for food, sex, money, you name it—stunned his subtler colleagues."  In 1981, Beard and friend Gael Greene founded Citymeals-on-Wheels, which continues to help feed the homebound elderly in New York City.
Julia Child summed up Beard's personal life:
Beard was the quintessential American cook. Well-educated and well-traveled during his eighty-two years, he was familiar with many cuisines but he remained fundamentally American. He was a big man, over six feet tall, with a big belly, and huge hands. An endearing and always lively teacher, he loved people, loved his work, loved gossip, loved to eat, loved a good time. 
Beard was gay.  According to Beard's memoir, "By the time I was seven, I knew that I was gay. I think it's time to talk about that now."  Beard came out in 1981, in Delights and Prejudices, a revised version of his memoir.  Of Beard’s “most significant romantic attachments” was his “lifetime companion” of thirty years,  Gino Cofacci, who was given an apartment in Beard’s townhouse in the will and died in 1989,  and Beard’s former cooking school assistant Carl Jerome.  John Birdsall, a food writer who won two James Beard Awards, ties Beard’s sexuality to his food aesthetics, and said in 2016 it’s only recently that people are accepting the connection. 
Beard's also had an admission of having "until I was about forty-five, I guess I had a really violent temper."  Mark Bittman described him in a manner similar to Child's description:
In a time when serious cooking meant French Cooking, Beard was quintessentially American, a Westerner whose mother ran a boardinghouse, a man who grew up with hotcakes and salmon and meatloaf in his blood. A man who was born a hundred years ago on the other side of the country, in a city, Portland, that at the time was every bit as cosmopolitan as, say, Allegheny, Pennsylvania. 
James Beard died of heart failure on January 21, 1985 at his home in New York City at age 81.  He was cremated and his ashes scattered over the beach in Gearhart, Oregon, where he spent summers as a child.
In 1995, Love and Kisses and a Halo of Truffles: Letters from Helen Evans Brown was published. It contained excerpts from Beard's bi-weekly correspondence from 1952 to 1964 with friend and fellow chef Helen Evans Brown. The book gave insight to their relationship as well as the way that they developed ideas for recipes, projects and food. 
After Beard's death in 1985, Julia Child wanted to preserve his home in New York City as the gathering place that it had been during his life. Peter Kump, a former student of Beard's and the founder of the Institute of Culinary Education (formerly Peter Kump's New York Cooking School), spearheaded efforts to purchase the house and create the James Beard Foundation. Beard's renovated brownstone at 167 West 12th Street in Greenwich Village, is North America's only historic culinary center. It is preserved as a gathering place where the press and general public could appreciate the talents of emerging and established chefs.
In 1986, the James Beard Foundation was established in Beard's honor to provide scholarships to aspiring food professionals and champion the American culinary tradition which Beard helped create.  "Since its inception in 1991, the James Beard Foundation Scholarship Program has awarded over $4.6 million in financial aid to a variety of students—from recent high school graduates, to working culinary professionals, to career changers. Recipients come from many countries, and enhance their knowledge at schools around the world." 
The annual James Beard Foundation Awards celebrate fine cuisine around Beard's birthday. Held on the first Monday in May, the awards ceremony honors American chefs, restaurants, journalists, cookbook authors, restaurant designers and electronic-media professionals. It culminates in a reception featuring tastings of signature dishes of more than 30 of the foundation's chefs. A quarterly magazine, Beard House, is a compendium of culinary journalism. The foundation also publishes the James Beard Foundation Restaurant Directory, a directory of all chefs who have presented a meal at the Beard House or participated in one of the foundation's outside fundraising events. [ citation needed ]
The foundation was affected by scandals in 2004 its head, Leonard Pickell, resigned and was imprisoned for grand larceny and in 2005 the board of trustees resigned. During this period, chef and writer Anthony Bourdain called the foundation "a kind of benevolent shakedown operation."  A new board of trustees has instituted an ethics policy and chosen a president, Susan Ungaro, to prevent future problems.
- Hors d'Oeuvre and Canapés (1940) M. Barrows & Co., revised in 1963 and 1985
- Cook It Outdoors (1941) M. Barrows & Co.
- Fowl and Game Cookery (1944) M. Barrows & Co.
- The Fireside Cook Book: A Complete Guide to Fine Cooking for Beginner and Expert (1949) Simon & Schuster, reissued in 1982 as The Fireside Cookbook
- Paris Cuisine (1952) Little, Brown and Company Beard co-wrote Paris Cuisine with British journalist Alexander Watt.
- The Complete Book of Barbecue & Rotisserie Cooking (1954) Maco Magazine Corp., reissued in 1958 as New Barbecue Cookbook and again in 1966 as Jim Beard's Barbecue Cookbook
- Complete Cookbook for Entertaining (1954) Maco Magazine Corp.
- How to Eat Better for Less Money (1954) Simon & Schuster
- James Beard's Fish Cookery (1954) Little, Brown, reissued in 1976 and 1987 in paperback as James Beard's New Fish Cookery
- Casserole Cookbook (1955) Maco Magazine Corp.
- The Complete Book of Outdoor Cookery (1955) Doubleday
- The James Beard Cookbook (1959) Dell Publishing, revised in 1961, 1970, 1987 (paperback) and 1996
- Treasury of Outdoor Cooking (1960) Golden Press
- Delights & Prejudices: A Memoir with Recipes (1964) Atheneum, revised in 1981 and 1990
- James Beard's Menus for Entertaining (1965) Delacorte Press
- How to Eat (and Drink) Your Way through a French (or Italian) Menu (1971) Atheneum
- James Beard's American Cookery (1972) Little, Brown and Company
- Beard on Bread (1973) Alfred A. Knopf, revised in 1995 (paperback)
- James Beard Cooks with Corning (1973)
- Beard on Food (1974) Knopf
- New Recipes for the Cuisinart Food Processor (1976)
- James Beard's Theory & Practice of Good Cooking (1977) Knopf, revised in 1978, 1986, and 1990
- The New James Beard (1981) Knopf, revised in 1989
- Beard on Pasta (1983) Knopf
- The Grand Grand Marnier Cookbook, with John Chang McCurdy (1982) TBWA Advertising, Inc., New York OCLC25716217
- Benson & Hedges 100's presents 100 of the world's greatest recipes (1976) Philip Morris Inc., New York 5867311
- The James Beard Cookbook on CuisineVu (1987) A computer diskette with about 125 recipes from The James Beard Cookbook (unpublished)
- James Beard's Simple Foods (1993) Macmillan978-0-02508-070-6
- Love and Kisses and a Halo of Truffles (1994) Arcade, edited by John Ferrone 978-1-55970-264-5
- The James Beard Cookbooks (1997) Thames and Hudson, edited by John Ferrone
- The Armchair James Beard (1999) The Lyons Press, edited by John Ferrone 978-1-55821-737-9
- The Essential James Beard Cookbook (2012) St. Martin's Press978-0-31264-218-1
Archival collection Edit
The James Beard Papers are housed in the Fales Library at New York University. 
El Guero Canelo
5201 S 12th Avenue, Tucson, AZ
In 1993, then 33-year-old Daniel Contreras opened a stand making elaborately dressed hot dogs inspired by those in his home city of Hermosillo, the capital of Sonora, Mexico. Now, it&aposs grown into a go-to restaurant with crowds lining up for Bacon-Wrapped Franks, topped with beans, onions, mustard, jalapeño sauce, mayo and all stuffed into a baguette-esque Mexican bread called bollilo.
Classic Cookbooks: The James Beard Cookbook
The James Beard Cookbook is probably the best-known work of the Dean of American Cookery (later Gastronomy), but it is not, according to his most recent biographer John Birdsall, his best. That honor would go to Delights And Prejudices , Beard’s 1964 memoir—not of things that happened to him, but things he ate. That book begins:
When Proust recollected the precise taste sensation of the little scalloped madeleine cakes served at tea by his aunt, it led him into his monumental remembrance of things past. When I recollect the taste sensations of my childhood, they lead me to more cakes, more tastes: the great razor clams, the succulent Dungeness crab, the salmon, crawfish, mussels, and trout of the Oregon coast the black bottom pie served in a famous Portland restaurant the Welsh rabbit of our Chinese cook the white asparagus my mother canned and the array of good dishes prepared by both of them in that most memorable of kitchens.
Delights And Prejudices is the sort of book that makes you hungry. Even as a small boy in Portland, Oregon, James Beard knew what good food was, and both his mother and the Chinese cook, Jue Let, made sure he had plenty of it. The book contains recipes, but they’re the old-fashioned kind, written out in paragraph form with the understanding that the person reading them already has a basic idea of how to cook. And there’s a sense that—although Beard claims his taste memory is pure and uninfluenced by sentimentality—the food Beard ate as a child cannot be precisely recreated. Elizabeth Beard and Let were both skilled professionals—before James was born, they had run a hotel kitchen together—and while they lacked modern cooking equipment, they had the benefit of the freshest and best ingredients, the sort that probably weren’t widely available to most Americans by the ’60s. (And maybe not in the early 1900s, either, unless you were a professional cook with connections and the clout to demand the very best white asparagus from the vegetable seller and the knowledge to protect yourself from being duped.)
The James Beard of Delights And Prejudices is a sensualist. The James Beard Cookbook, on the other hand, is the work of the Dean of American Cookery himself, a comprehensive cookbook akin to Fannie Farmer (which he loved) or Joy Of Cooking (which he did not). This book begins with a recipe. for boiling water.
This is what you do: Fill a saucepan with cold water and put it on the stove. Adjust the burner to high. Let the water heat until it bubbles and surges—and that is boiling water.
The James Beard Cookbook, as Beard explains in the introduction, is a book for two types of people: those who literally do not know how to boil water and those who know the basics, but not how to make anything that tastes good. But fear not: Uncle James is here to help! “I assure you in all seriousness that many of the recipes in this book are not much more complicated than these instructions on how to boil water.” (My grandmother, the original owner of my copy of The James Beard Cookbook, fell into the second category. I rescued the book from her house after she died, along with her copy of Mastering The Art Of French Cooking, Vol. 1. Both books were pristine. I don’t think she ever used them. I imagine that, when she bought the books around 1970, she was preparing for life as an empty-nester, and thought she would take up cooking. Instead, she and my grandfather became world travelers.)
The picture on the cover of my copy, the 1970 revised edition, shows an enormous jolly bald man in a plaid shirt and striped apron laughing with joy as he stands at a table outdoors stuffing an enormous fish: the Santa Claus (sans beard) of American Cookery. This is clearly a man who loves his food and knows how to prepare it. You are in good hands. The headnotes are brisk and informative and don’t get much more personal than this one for Braised Beef, Bordeaux Fashion: “This is a peasant dish from the Bordeaux region in France, and I first ate it there with the local pickers during grape harvest time.” And then to business.
Beard’s original goal as a food writer was to teach Americans how to appreciate the French bourgeois cuisine that he loved, which he did by writing recipes for boeuf bourguignon or pot au feu and giving them less-intimidating American names. His true genius, however, was the realization that American food could have its own terroir: it could capture the spirit of French food without slavishly following the recipes. Instead, American cooks should imitate the habits of the best French cooks or his mother and Let: they should use the best local ingredients they can find and let that guide their preparations. He makes that point quite clear at the outset of The James Beard Cookbook: “Buy good food, and buy often.”
This was somewhat radical advice in 1959 when The James Beard Cookbook first appeared. (Knowing its audience, the publisher, Dell, first issued it as a cheap paperback and then, a year later, reissued it in hardcover for more serious cooks, or maybe those who had worn out their paperbacks.) Americans were still in the thrall of canned and frozen convenience foods, and Beard wanted to rescue them from the tyranny of the TV dinner. He doesn’t come out and say so in The James Beard Cookbook, of course—why risk alienating your readers?—but his recipes call for fresh meat and vegetables and he makes a point of demystifying kitchen processes, like chopping and poaching and making a French-style omelette (although he includes two other, simpler preparations for the less confident cooks). For this reason, The James Beard Cookbook has aged extremely well you could still give it to a novice cook today, especially if they’re interested in Western European-style food, and they should feel confident enough to make a meal from it, even Braised Beef, Bordeaux Fashion.
But there is very little of James Beard, the human being, in The James Beard Cookbook. There’s more of him in Delights And Prejudices, but, as John Birdsall argues in his own wonderful biography, The Man Who Ate Too Much: The Life Of James Beard , the Beard persona had already been well-established by 1964. This was, in part, because it took a village to write a book by “James Beard,” populated by editors, typists, and coauthors, including Isabel Callvert, who gets credit on the title page of The James Beard Cookbook, who all worked together to tame his meanderings into standard, authoritative prose. Beard was also a notorious thief of other people’s recipes he claimed it was compensation for helping them along in the food world, but he never bothered to warn them in advance.
The other reason there’s so little James Beard in “James Beard,” though, Birdsall writes, is because Beard, like many queer people in the first half of the 20th century, was deeply closeted. That he was gay was an open secret to his friends—many of whom were queer themselves—and in the food world at large, but to his fans he was just their bachelor uncle. (In fact, Beard lived with the architect Gino Cofacci for the last 30 years of his life Cofacci, Birdsall writes, was probably the first person with whom Beard had ever been truly in love, but the relationship, of course, remained a secret.) Beard had learned the consequences of being a gay man in America early: he had been expelled from Reed College in 1921 after he was overheard hooking up with a male professor in his dorm room. After his early dreams of acting died and he drifted into party-planning and catering and then, finally, cookbook writing and teaching, his editors encouraged him to hide his natural gossipy, campy personality behind the authoritative “Dean of American Cookery.” Beard’s dream was to write a chatty, personal cookbook that relied on taste memory rather than instruction, something like The Alice B. Toklas Cook Book (another queer icon!), but the closest he ever got was Delights And Prejudices.
The house on West 10th Street in Greenwich Village where Beard was living in 1969 was within shouting distance of the Stonewall Inn—Birdsall found evidence that Beard was at home the night of the uprising on June 28—but Beard was 66 years old by then and, Birdsall writes, “shame and fear were not things people of James’s generation could fling away so easily, like pennies at cops. James had become a master at inventing myths about himself: He needed to.”
It took Birdsall seven years to write The Man Who Ate Too Much. He had access to Beard’s manuscripts and letters to friends and the datebooks where he recorded what he ate, and he was able to interview several people who knew him well, including gay men he mentored. All of his helped dispel some of the myths Beard created about himself. But before Beard died in 1985, he’d requested that his personal effects, particularly those that provided definite proof of his queer identity, be destroyed.
Now James Beard is an icon, literally: his image appears on anything stamped with the imprimatur of the James Beard Foundation. His house on West 12th Street is a temple to American gastronomy, or at least to the people who have given themselves the authority to determine what American gastronomy is and who does it best. It dwarfs his books and anything else that hints that the Dean of American Cookery was once an actual human being. Birdsall comes as close as anyone to reviving him. But much of James Beard himself remains unknowable. Some myths will be enshrined as truth, and some truths will remain a mystery.
7 Thanksgiving Leftover Recipes From James Beard Award-Winning Chefs
With fresh turkey, sugary sweet potatoes and all things cranberry, it’s tough to beat the traditional Thanksgiving feast. But the turkey doldrums that inevitably follow? That’s a tedious stretch of leftovers most feasters could do without.
Turkey sandwiches are the obvious solution for leftovers, but bread-and-bird isn’t the only way to serve up extras. Turkey’s mild flavor makes it interchangeable for many chicken dishes expert chefs recommend rejiggering tried-and-true recipes like noodle soup to use up the holiday bird in a new, delicious way. Extra cranberry sauce, sweet potatoes and green beans can also make repeat appearances post-holiday, as side-dish solutions include everything from rolls and biscuits to soups and salads.
To sprinkle some pizzazz into this year’s post-holiday menu, we’ve enlisted the experts ― a variety of James Beard-recognized chefs who have their own leftover adaptations. From creative sides to unique spins on the main bird, here are seven must-try Thanksgiving leftover recipes from the experts.
Chef Virginia Willis learned to cook in her grandma’s country kitchen, then went on to win a James Beard Award for her book “Lighten Up, Y’All.” This noodle soup recipe from her popular book is a great way to repurpose poultry (with the easy swap of turkey instead of chicken).
Tacos are a tangy twist on Thanksgiving leftovers. In this flavorful dish, Willis told HuffPost to make a turkey-for-chicken swap with reheated turkey meat.
Get the Vidalia Onion Chicken Tacos recipe from Virginia Willis.
Beverly Brown’s potato rolls are one of James Beard-awarded chef Howard Hanna’s top leftover recipes. These rolls, created by his sous chef Kara Anderson, give mashed potatoes a scrumptious second life.
Get the Beverly Brown’s Potato Rolls recipe from the James Beard Foundation.
Sean Sherman and Beth Dooley, authors of the James Beard-awarded cookbook “The Sioux Chef's Indigenous Kitchen,” offer a unique use for leftover cranberry sauce in this tasty autumn soup.
Get the Squash and Apple Soup with Fresh Cranberry Sauce recipe from the James Beard Foundation.
While turkey leftovers get the spotlight, James Beard award winner Yotam Ottolenghi, author of “Ottolenghi Simple,” shares a creative and healthy way to reuse leftover green beans: a zesty tofu and green-bean veggie concoction. Even better? This dish can double as a sauce to add Libyan flair to chicken or — you guessed it — turkey.
Get the Tofu and Haricots Verts with Chraimeh Sauce recipe from the James Beard Foundation.
These Ottolenghi burgers from the cookbook “Jerusalem” call for minced turkey, and the recipe’s creamy sumac sauce is perfect for spicing up that leftover bird. The sauce “will go well with most non-red meats” like turkey, according to the recipe.
Get the Turkey & Courgette Burgers with Spring Onion & Cumin recipe from Yotam Ottolenghi.
Brandon Frohne has made a name for himself cooking at the James Beard House in New York, and these spiced sweet potato-walnut biscuits — perfect for leftover sweet potatoes — are one of his biggest hits.
Get the Spiced Sweet Potato-Walnut Biscuits recipe from the James Beard Foundation.
7 ways to go no-waste in the kitchen: Turn scraps into stars and 'eat ugly'
Professional chefs have long practiced smart ways to curb food waste, and you can implement their top tips, recipes and other ways to practice a sustainable relationship with food in your home kitchen.
"GMA" spoke to leaders in the food community who shared insights from full-use cooking methods to best practices as diners and how everything we do has an impact on the links in the food chain.
If you've ever thrown out wilted greens that you forgot about in your crisper drawer, tossed out the tops and stems of veggies without a second thought, or only buy boneless poultry, then you -- my friend -- are missing out on some seriously delicious flavor and future star ingredients.
What is food sustainability?
Katherine Miller, the vice president of impact at the James Beard Foundation, knows a thing or two about food sustainability policy and advocacy.
"Sustainability for us at the James Beard Foundation is about three principles: good for people, good for the planet and the community," she said. "We focus on these pillars in our practices related to food waste reduction."
Miller developed the foundation's signature training program, Chefs Boot Camp for Policy and Change, where professional chefs cook and learn skills to practice sustainability in their kitchens and at the community level.
Along with the Foundation's "Waste Not" cookbook that shows readers how to get the most from their food, Miller said JBF also has a chef-to-chef curriculum to create a full-use, no-waste kitchen.
Sara Brito, president and co-founder of Good Food 100, which measures chefs and restaurants' commitment to and impact on a sustainable food system, said everything that eaters, chefs and restaurants do has an impact.
"How they spend their money has an impact on every link in the food chain: the environment, animals, farmers, ranchers and fishermen, farm workers and food service workers," Brito explained. "People should vote with their food dollars to support food that is as good as possible for every link in the food chain."
Did you know?
Food waste is estimated at between 30 to 40% in the U.S.
"This estimate, based on estimates from U.S. Department of Agriculture's Economic Research Service of 31% food loss at the retail and consumer levels, corresponded to approximately 133 billion pounds and $161 billion worth of food in 2010," according to a USDA report.
Top tips and best practices
These are some of the simple things you can do every day to help create a sustainable food chain.
Love your freezer
"Freeze everything." This was the resounding message from every chef and food leader we heard from, so it's no wonder this was Miller's No. 1 tip.
"You may realize, 'Oh, I bought that ground beef and decided not to use it tonight,' or you have a whole bunch of vegetables from the farmers market and you have all these ends you're not going to eat right away -- put it in the freezer."
Freeze leftover vegetables and even rotisserie chicken bones to be used for soup stock.
Plan your menu so you don't over-prepare
"Especially for home cooks, another tip is to plan your menu," Miller said. "Plan for your guests and don't over-prepare. You want people walking away happy, not stuffed."
She also said that despite the idea for a host to have an abundance, it's better to "leave 'em wanting more."
Encourage leftovers and elevate it with an egg
"In the same way we do at the [James Beard] House, encourage people to take leftovers home with them," Miller said. "You will waste far less food."
The Good Food 100 co-founder also said people can incorporate this practice when dining out at restaurants.
"Don't be afraid to ask (or let others make you feel cheap for asking) for all of the leftovers to take home," Brito said. "Almost all leftovers taste good the next day for breakfast or lunch with an egg on it."
"Even the extra bread in the bread basket makes for delicious toast the next day or breadcrumbs to freezer for later use."
Chef Kwame Williams, a private chef from New Jersey who also attended a JBF boot camp, suggested another great use of leftovers: "Stir fry!"
"A traditional stir fry is made with day-old rice -- combine that with any leftover meat that might be in your refrigerator, along with fresh or frozen vegetables," Williams added.
Turn your scraps into stars
Miller suggested to "juice the stems and turn it into a lovely cocktail" and to "save the bones from a chicken and turn it into a soup. Use all the peels and ends of your onions, carrots and other vegetables to make into a lovely broth on a rainy day."
Brito added that purees are another perfect way to preserve and capitalize on using an ingredient.
"Puree any leftover vegetable to make a quick and delicious vegetable soup," she suggested.
Cupps, who loves Asian cooking techniques, said pickling -- and particularly fermenting -- is a great way to reinvigorate produce and give it new life.
"In a lot of Japanese and Korean cookbooks," Cupps added, "they suggest things like Kimchi, which is just a way to ferment with a little chili. It's just a little funkier but it adds some spice, some kick to your food and it does preserve the product for weeks."
In addition to pickling or making pesto, Williams also offered an additional option other than pickling vegetables or making a pesto: "Jams can definitely be used when you have an ingredient in excess."
That's right, you don't have to pick the most Instagram-able fruits and vegetables. In fact, food advocates like Miller think you shouldn't!
Consumers can help reduce waste by supporting the movement to eat misshapen foods. Some companies, like Imperfect Produce, will even deliver the delicious fruits and veggies that don't make it off the farm to grocery stores for nearly 30% less than supermarket prices.
It's even become popular on social media accounts that show off carrots that look like they're hugging or other produce shaped like a heart.
First In, First Out: When you put your groceries into the fridge or pantry, move the older products to the front and put new products in the back. You'll be more inclined to use the older stuff in front before it expires.
Keep a list of what you have
With an inventory of all the items at your finger tips, you may be less likely to purchase more of the same without using what you have on hand.
Save cooking and braising liquid
Another great practice in Akunowicz's kitchen is to save cooking or braising liquids to add back more flavor. With a filled pasta dish at Fox and the Knife, she uses simmering liquid and the peels from the parsnips to steep the pasta.
"It adds more parsnip flavor and body to the sauce!"
They also braise vegetables in the duck fat and stock from duck confit.
“The braising liquid is used as the base of the pasta sauce and we save the duck fat to confit our crispy potatoes."
With Restaurants in Crisis, the James Beard Foundation Has a New Mission
Inside their efforts to help independent restaurants survive, rebuild, and thrive.
When applications for a $15,000 grant from the James Beard Foundation opened to restaurants on March 30, 4,000 businesses applied in the first 90 minutes. The grant was closed to applications shortly after. Today, the foundation announced it has raised $4.7 million in emergency relief, and already disbursed $4 million to over 300 recipients in 40 states.
This emergency funding was the first phase of a new, long-term campaign called Open For Good. The campaign has three phases: stabilize, rebuild, and thrive, and according to James Beard Foundation CEO Clare Reichenbach, the foundation is committing its full staff and program to the initiative for at least the next year.
𠇊s we’ve seen through this crisis the fragility of this industry has been so exposed, and it’s systemic, and we know that fixing this is going to be multi-faceted,” she said.
Christine Cikowski and Josh Kulp, chef-owners of Honey Butter Fried Chicken and Sunday Dinner Club in Chicago, received one of the $15,000 grants in April. Cikowski said they applied within the ten minutes of applications being open in March, and received word of their success and the money about a month later.
“We didn&apost know how much the grants were going to be when we applied for them. Getting $500 or $1,000𠅎very bit helps. But having a $15,000 grant makes a huge impact on any business. We’re using ours to help pay some of our employee benefits while they’re furloughed and making changes to our space. It’s a significant amount of money to be given with no terms, no repayment.” Cikowski and Kulp furloughed nearly all of their 48 employees.
They were approved for federal aid under the Paycheck Protection Program for both businesses, though ultimately decided to decline a PPP loan for Honey Butter Fried Chicken. “We were closed, and it seemed abundantly clear to me, after discussing it with our banker, reading every page, and becoming a true expert on the topic, that we were not even close to being able to meet the guidelines for forgiveness, nor were we even in the ballpark of what the spirit of the guidelines were,” Kulp said.
Reichenbach said that the majority of recipients, like Cikowski and Kulp, run restaurants with fewer than 50 employees.
𠇊s we think about PPP and the fact that these small operators are struggling to access that relief, we feel good that our relief fund is really getting into the hands of those small neighborhood organizations that really need this shot in the arm,” Reichenbach said.
Still, she said she knows that a relatively small grant alone won’t save a business that has had to lay off or furlough workers as they wait for relief and reopening. The James Beard Foundation itself isn’t immune to these challenges, either, and had to furlough a portion of its 60 employees, including those who worked at the James Beard House, a restaurant space in Manhattan. Reichenbach declined to share the exact number of affected employees, but said that every department of the foundation had been impacted. 𠇊s we offer resources and guidance around this, we’re also coming from a place of great empathy because we’ll be living and breathing this unfurling ourselves,” she said.
Though one phase of emergency relief has ended, the foundation continues to collect data to support real-time relief for the industry. It has put out a series of “snap surveys,” each open for a few days to assess the impact of closures, what businesses need now, and thoughts around reopening. Each has over a thousand responses, and together these surveys have been 𠇎mpirical substance to the claim for what is needed,” said Reichenbach. To complement this, the foundation has built a system of information and guidance, with daily webinars and weekly regional outreach to address operational practicalities like business pivots, insurance claims, and access to federal loan funds.
Most importantly, she said, the foundation is working to distribute all of this information with a strong singular voice and message to restaurants and consumers. As restaurants begin to think about reopening under various levels of state and local guidance, safety is of paramount importance. “This is an industry that is so accessible and relatable. This will be a great signal of where society is at in terms of the health and shape of restaurants reopening,” she said.
The foundation partnered with The Aspen Institute on a forthcoming playbook for reopening, containing information and best practices for safety, operations, benefits and livable wages for employees, and sustainable supply chains and practices. It’s encouraging the dining public to continue supporting local businesses, and ongoing consumer education will be a huge part of its efforts.
“I think people are more receptive to this messaging because they can see their beloved restaurants in distress and duress right now. There’s this greater understanding of the value of the role of restaurants and restaurant workers in our society,” she said. “These are the essential workers who are taking the risk to cook, to feed, to nourish, to deliver.”
In its final phase, the Open For Good campaign will help reopened restaurants thrive in a new reality. The foundation will continue to fundraise to support reopening efforts. “Once we’re through this and we have a new complexion to the restaurant industry, it’s using all our levers to elevate and champion those who are leaders in the field through awards, through events, through our platforms, and doing everything we can to reinforce the good.”
There are still a lot of questions around what restaurants might look like, in both the near and long-term future, but Reichenbach is focused on the opportunity to support change for good. “I think we want the industry to come back looking different in some respects. This crisis has underscored the elements that are broken, and this is the opportunity to fix them,” she said.
“The thing about this community, this is such a resilient, smart, scrappy, problem-solving group of doers. We haven&apost cracked the code on this yet, but I think they will rise to the challenge to figure it out.”
James Beard Foundation Honors San Diego Restaurant for Sustainable Seafood Practices
Lionfish, a modern seafood restaurant in San Diego’s Pendry Hotel, has been recognized by the James Beard Foundation as a 2019 Smart Catch Leader. The "Smart Catch" program was created for chefs, by chefs, according to the JBF site, and aims to “increase the sustainability of the seafood supply chain.” In other words? Responsibly sourcing seafood.
Jose “Jojo” Ruiz, executive chef/partner at Lionfish, definitely fits the bill, serving what the restaurant refers to as “sea-to-table” meals. Lionfish is one of three restaurants in San Diego to have received the "Smart Catch" recognition, according to a statement.
“I care deeply about our oceans, growing up in San Diego, as it’s been a huge part of my life and lifestyle. I’m flattered to be a part of something that’s truly changing the way chefs and diners feel about food and the importance of sustainability in seafood,” Ruiz said in the statement.
On the menu, you’ll find fresh catches like “Whole 2 Pound San Diego Spiny Lobster” and 𠇌oal Grilled Local Opah”—the sashimi and sushi section sources Albacore from Hawaii, Uni from San Diego and Santa Barbara, and Striped Bass from Baja. And the oyster section gives you a choice of East Coast, West Coast, or Baja varieties—so it’s pretty clear to diners exactly where their meal is coming from.
But it&aposs not just about transparent sourcing. In order to qualify as a Smart Catch Leader, restaurants have to fulfill the following criteria: complete at least three assessments in the calendar year, have no endangered items according to the IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature) Red List of Threatened Species, have two or fewer “Red” items, and eight percent or less “Red Volume,” per the JBF site. Additionally, on back-to-back assessments, the restaurant needs to score 80 percent or higher.
In other James Beard news, five restaurants were recently recognized for the annual 𠇊merican Classics” award, which highlights places that are locally-owned, and serve "quality food that reflects the character of their communities." The winners include Jim’s Steak and Spaghetti House in West Virginia, and Pho 79 in California check out the full list here.
Beard Cooking School
In 1955, Beard established the James Beard Cooking School. He continued to teach cooking to men and women for the next 30 years, both at his own schools (in New York City and Seaside, Oregon), and around the country at women’s clubs, other cooking schools, and civic groups. Beard was a tireless traveler, bringing his message of good food, honestly prepared with fresh, wholesome, American ingredients, to a country just becoming aware of its own culinary heritage. He also continued to write cookbooks, most of which became classics and many of which are still in print.
When James Beard died at 81 on January 21, 1985, he left a legacy of culinary excellence and integrity to generations of home cooks and professional chefs. His name remains synonymous with American food.
Major funding for James Beard: America’s First Foodie is provided by Feast it Forward. Additional funding provided by the National Endowment for the Arts and Art Works.
Major support for American Masters is provided by AARP. Additional funding is provided by the Corporation for Public Broadcasting, Rosalind P. Walter, The Philip and Janice Levin Foundation, Judith and Burton Resnick, Ellen and James S. Marcus, Vital Projects Fund, Lillian Goldman Programming Endowment, The Blanche & Irving Laurie Foundation, Cheryl and Philip Milstein Family, The André and Elizabeth Kertész Foundation, Michael & Helen Schaffer Foundation and public television viewers.